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Mersa Dudu, Eritrea - Red Sea

March 3 – 5, 2008



After two nights at sea we arrived at our first Red Sea anchorage, Mersa Dudu.  High volcanic peaks poked out from an otherwise barren landscape.  The wind accelerated through these peaks and into the anchorage, resulting in more wind inside the anchorage than out!  The anchorage was still comfortable, with now real chop, but loud with 25kts whistling through our rigging.


I had read some compare the landscape of Mersa Dudu to the moon.  I didn’t see it.  To me it is the desert plain and simple – isolated, dry, and brown.  Then again I’ve never been to the moon.

Ironically we hadn’t really given much thought to where we were going to be – it was always just “the Red Sea”.  It wasn’t until Mersa Dudu that it dawned on us that we were actually in Africa, the place I’d wanted to visit since I was a kid.  Another continent, another country.  For us this was when we truly realized that the Red Sea would not be some place to speed through but rather a place to explore.  Later we acknowledged that there were two types of cruisers traversing through – those that would just go-go-go, perhaps only considering Egypt as any type of real destination, using the Red Sea merely as a highway, the anchorages as pit stops, and those that saw the Red Sea (and its many anchorages/countries) as a destination in itself.  Who would take the time to see and explore.  The other great thing about our realization was that we finally remembered that we have a Lonely Planet Guide for Africa!  All this time we thought we’d just have to wing it, but all of a sudden Chris looks in our big shelf and says “hey this is where we are!”

Not that we really need Lonely Planet to tell us that we were currently in “an inhospitable volcanic and rock desert” or that this area was “desolate and harsh in the extreme”.  Still it was fun to learn that we were currently in a region reputed to be one of the hottest places on earth!

We spent three days in Mersa Dudu, mostly waiting for better weather.  Regrettably Chris and I both came down with something (most likely food poisoning) and spent a large portion of our time sick as dogs and unable to go ashore.

Our friends hiked to the top of one of the smaller volcanic peaks, which offered great views over the bays (photo right by Stardust).  On our third day Chris was healthy enough to at least go ashore and do some beach & rock walking.

BSA and Anatolia: Colophon

Cecil Harcourt-Smith, in his last year of office as Director, joined the steam yacht Rona belonging to Baron Ferdinand de Rothschild, a major donor to the BSA, in the early part of 1897. Clearly one of the objects was to identify a possible major site for excavation after the work at Phylakopi on Melos.

The cruise took Harcourt-Smith to Salonica and through the Aegean. He was particularly interested in the site of Colophon to the south of Smyrna. Hamdi Bey, Director of the Imperial Museums in Constantinople, was approached for a firman. However due to the outbreak of war in Thessaly and on Crete, the excavation never took place.

The American School also considered Colophon a suitable site to excavate though the work did not start until after the First World War in 1922 and quickly came to a halt due to events in Anatolia.

Fitness And Nutrition Tips

We’ve all heard it before...

In order to be healthy, we must eat plenty of fruits and vegetables and exercise regularly. It’s become the mantra of fitness buffs everywhere, and is touted so often that many of us have become deaf to the words. No matter how much you might have heard about the fitness/nutrition preach, it would be wise to heed the words and act on them.

Fitness and nutrition always go hand in hand when it comes to having a healthier lifestyle as well as a better quality of life. When we're still young, it may seem unnecessary to worry about poor nutrition and sedentary lifestyle, but by the time we hit middle age, we will begin to concern ourselves with things like cholesterol, high blood pressure and other health risk factors.

Get Moving...

The first part of the fitness/nutrition combination consists of daily physical movement. This can be in the form of walking, jogging, swimming or cycling. It can also mean using a piece of cardiovascular equipment at the local fitness center or indulging in a regular game of racquetball. Aerobic exercise like this should be done at least five times a week for 30 minutes at a time. This will ensure a healthy cardiovascular system and weight maintenance.

You can up the benefits of your cardio workout by adding strength training two or three times each week. This can be done with the use of a few free weights in your basement, or with the help of machines at the gym. It is best to begin with a personal trainer to ensure that your positioning is correct during your weight lifting exercises. This will help you avoid injury in the early phase of your program. Raise your weight amounts gradually, and never do strength training on back-to-back days.

Eat Healthy...

The second element of a fitness and nutrition program is eating smart. All the hard works in exercise won’t do you much good if you are still eating unhealthy. The United States Department of Agriculture has recently revised their food pyramid guide to help the general public make nutritious meal choices. The idea behind this updated food pyramid is so that you can make healthy food choices everyday from the major food groups. Combine your healthy food choices with regular exercise and you will be on your way to good health.

To find out more information about the USDA food pyramid, you can go to http://www.mypyramid.gov/. The most important factor to keep in mind when choosing a nutrition program is to allow the bulk of your diet to consist of fresh fruits and vegetables, and whole grain carbohydrates. Low-fat dairy, lean meats and poultry can round up much of your menu, with refined sugars and fats making up only a small portion of your daily food intake.

Fitness and nutrition are more than just a simple slogan – they are the best choices for a happy and healthy lifestyle.

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Edwin Freshfield and Sidney Barnsley

Sidney Howard Barnsley (1865-1926) was admitted to the BSA in 1887/88 as an architectural student of the Royal Academy. He worked on Byzantine architecture in Salonica and Mount Athos as part of a project directed by Dr Edwin Freshfield, a trustee of the BSA.

Freshfield lived at Lower Kingswood in Surrey and commissioned Barnsley to design a new church, 'The Wisdom of God', in a Byzantine style.

Donors to the BSA

The 'Rules and Regulations' of the BSA defined three different types of Subscribers. The first was defined as:
(1) Donors of £10 and upwards.
This was later changed to:
(1) Donors, other than Corporate Bodies, of £10 and upwards.
Donors included:
  • Sir William Reynell Anson (1843-1914), Warden of All Souls, Oxford; vice-chancellor (1898); MP for Oxford University (£10, 1899/1900; £10, 1900/01; £10, 1901/02; £10, 1902/03; £10, 1904/05; £10, 1905/06; £10, 1906/07; £10, 1907/08; £10, 1908/09; £10, 1909/10; £10, 1910/11; £10, 1911/12; £10, 1912/13; £10, 1913/14)
  • Colonel O. Chambers (£10, 1899/1900; £10, 1900/01)
  • Lord Egerton of Tatton / Rt. Hon. Earl Egerton (Wilbraham Egerton) (1832-1909) (£10.10.0, 1895/96; £10.10.0, 1896/97; £10.10.0, 1897/98; £10.10.0, 1898/99; £10.10.0, 1899/1900; £10.10.0, 1900/01; £10.10.0, 1901/02; £10.10.0, 1902/03; £10.10.0, 1904/05; £10.10.0, 1905/06; £10.10.0, 1906/07)
  • Sir Arthur J. Evans (1851-1941) (£10, 1894/95; £10, 1895/96; £10, 1896/97; £10, 1897/98; £10, 1898/9; £10, 1899/1900; £10, 1900/01; £10, 1901/02; £10, 1902/03; £10, 1904/05; £10, 1905/06; £10, 1906/07; £10, 1907/08; £10, 1908/09; £10, 1909/10; £10, 1910/11; £10, 1911/12; £10, 1912/13; £10, 1913/14; £10, 1914/15; £10, 1915/16; £10, 1916/17; £10, 1917/18)
  • Douglas William Freshfield (1845-1934) (£10, 1895/96; £10, 1896/97; £10, 1897/98; £10, 1898/9; £10, 1899/1900; £10, 1900/01; £10, 1902/03; £10, 1904/05; £10, 1905/06; £10, 1906/07; £10, 1907/08; £10, 1908/09; £10, 1909/10; £10, 1910/11; £10, 1912/13; £10, 1913/14; £10, 1914/15; £10, 1915/16; £10, 1916/17; £10, 1917/18)
  • Lord Hillingdon (Charles Henry Mills, first Baron Hillingdon [1830–1898]) (£10, 1895/96; £10, 1896/97; £10, 1897/98)
  • Thomas Hodgkin (1831-1913) (£10, 1902/03; £10, 1904/05; £10, 1905/06; £10, 1906/07; £10, 1907/08; £10, 1908/09; £10, 1909/10; £10, 1910/11; £10, 1911/12; £10, 1912/13)
  • Lady Howard de Walden (Lady Lucy Joan Cavendish-Scott-Bentinck) (d. 1899); widow of Charles Augustus Ellis, sixth Baron Howard de Walden and second Baron Seaford (1799–1868) (£20, 1897/98; £20, 1896/97; £20, 1898/9)
  • Walter Leaf (1852-1927) (£100, 1894/95; £20, 1895/96; £20, 1896/97; £20, 1897/98; £20, 1898/9; £50, 1899/1900; £50, 1900/01; £20, 1901/02; £50, 1902/03; £50, 1904/05; £50, 1905/06; £50, 1906/07; £50, 1907/08; £50, 1908/09; £50, 1909/10; £50, 1910/11; £50, 1911/12; £50, 1912/13; £50, 1913/14; £50, 1914/15; £50, 1915/16; £50, 1916/17; £50, 1917/18)
  • William Loring (1865-1915) (£15, 1899/1900; £10, 1900/01)
  • Sir Thomas Lucas (1822-1902) (£10, 1895/96; £10.10.0, 1897/98; £10.10.0, 1898/9)
  • George A. Macmillan (£10.10.0, 1894/95; £10.10.0, 1895/96; £10.10.0, 1896/97; £10.10.0, 1897/98; £20, 1898/9; £25, 1899/1900; £25, 1900/01; £25, 1901/02; £25, 1902/03; £50, 1904/05; £50, 1905/06; £50, 1906/07; £50, 1907/08; £50, 1908/09; £50, 1909/10; £50, 1910/11; £50, 1911/12; £50, 1912/13; £50, 1913/14; £50, 1914/15; £25, 1915/16; £25, 1916/17; £25, 1917/18)
  • Macmillan & Co. (£20, 1895/96; £20, 1896/97; £20, 1897/98; £20, 1898/9)
  • C.W. Mitchell (£10, 1895/96; £10, 1897/98£10, 1898/9; £10, 1899/1900; £10, 1900/01; £10, 1901/02; £10, 1902/03; )
  • Ludwig Mond (1839-1909) (£100, 1895/96; £100, 1896/97; £100, 1897/98; £100, 1898/9; £100, 1899/1900; £100, 1900/01; £100, 1901/02; £100, 1902/03; £100, 1904/05; £100, 1905/06; £100, 1906/07; £100, 1907/08; £100, 1908/09)
  • Walter Morrison (1836-1921); a founder of the Palestine Exploration Fund (£10, 1911/12; £10, 1912/13; £10, 1913/14; £10, 1914/15)
  • Mrs J.W. Pease (£10.10.0, 1902/03)
  • Baron Ferdinand de Rothschild (1839-1898) (£50, 1895/96; £50, 1896/97; £50, 1897/98)
  • Sir Lawrence Alma Tadema (1836-1912) (£20, 1895/96; £20, 1896/97; £20, 1897/98; £20, 1898/9; £20, 1899/1900)
  • Mrs Hedwig Tod, Edinburgh (£10, 1904/05; £10, 1905/06; £10, 1906/07; £10, 1909/10; £10, 1910/11; £10, 1911/12; £10, 1912/13)
  • Rev. Henry Fanshawe Tozer (1829-1916) (£10, 1894/95; £10, 1895/96; £10, 1896/97; £10, 1897/98; £10, 1898/9; £10, 1899/1900; £10, 1900/01; £10, 1901/02; £10, 1902/03; £10, 1904/05; £10, 1905/06; £10, 1906/07; £10, 1907/08; £10, 1908/09; £10, 1909/10; £10, 1910/11; £10, 1911/12; £10, 1912/13; £10, 1913/14; £10, 1914/15; £10, 1915/16)
  • Sir Julius (Charles) Wernher (1850-1912) (£25, 1899/1900; £25, 1900/01; £25, 1901/02; £25, 1902/03; £25, 1904/05; £25, 1905/06; £25, 1906/07; £25, 1907/08; £25, 1908/09; £25, 1909/10; £25, 1910/11; £25, 1911/12)
This working list will be revised; 8 October 2008.

Passage Blurbs: Yemen to Mersa Dudu

Mersa Dudu, Eritrea, Africa


Volcanic Formations of Mersa Dudu

Night 2 - March 2, 2008

Officially in the Red Sea, First sites of Africa to port. Great fishing caught four Mahi mahi in 15 minutes, only kept one


More Mahi Mahi


Night 1 - March 1, 2008

Underway up the Red Sea, Riding a southerly while we can

Passage Journal: Yemen to Mersa Dudu

March 1 – 2, 2008

Trip Summary - 221 nM, 44 Hours, Ave 5 knots



Our passage from Aden to Mersa Dudu was mostly, thankfully, uneventful.  It was a combination of motoring in no winds to sailing reefed down in 30 kts.  But even the higher winds and rolly seas were not too bad as they all came from behind.

The Bab al-Mandab Straits held up to their reputation of being windy, but again it was nothing unmanageable.  We had to once again cross a major shipping channel, but compared to the Singapore channel this was nothing.  It also helped that we now had AIS so could see the ships, their courses, and speeds from over 30 nautical miles out.

Just after crossing the Straits Chris threw out a fishing line and by 10am on our second morning we had a nice Mahi-Mahi.  We were traveling with a few other boats who all threw out fishing lines after we announced we caught something.  Amazingly within minutes three of the four boats had a fish!  Not even a full day into the Red Sea and it was already living up to its reputation for good fishing.

The BSA and Egypt: Naukratis Excavation Fund

Just over £187 was raised for the excavation of Naukratis in 1899 by David Hogarth. The main donor was the Society of Dilettanti with £100. The Fitzwilliam and Ashmolean Museums also supported the project (£15 and £10, respectively).

Private donors
£10
£5
£3
£2.2.0

The Annual Meeting of Subscribers: Chair (1886-1918)

Those chairing the Annual Meeting of Subscribers:
  • 1886, October 19 (Royal Asiatic Society, 22 Albemarle Street): Professor Charles T. Newton (The Earl of Carnarvon absent)
  • 1887, July 6 ('Society of Athens') [First Annual Meeting]: the Earl of Carnarvon (Henry Howard Molyneux Herbert, Fourth Earl of Carnarvon)
  • 1888, July 18 (Society of Antiquaries): Lord Herschell (Farrer Herschell, First Baron Herschell, Lord Chancellor)
  • 1889, July 10 (The Society of Arts): the Earl of Carnarvon (Henry Howard Molyneux Herbert, Fourth Earl of Carnarvon)
  • 1890, July 2 (Royal Asiatic Society, 22 Albemarle Street): Francis C. Penrose, former director (Lord Savile [John Savile, first Baron Savile of Rufford] absent)
  • 1891, July 3 (Royal Asiatic Society, 22 Albemarle Street): Lord Justice Bowen (Charles Synge Christopher Bowen, Baron Bowen)
  • 1892, July 7 (Royal Asiatic Society, 22 Albemarle Street): Lord Bute (John Patrick Crichton-Stuart, third marquess of Bute)
  • 1893, July 19 (Society of Antiquaries): The Archbishop of Canterbury (Edward White Benson)
  • 1894, July 11 (Asiatic Society, 22 Albemarle Street): Mr Bryce, MP (James Bryce, President of the Board of Trade, 1894-95)
  • 1895, July 17 (Asiatic Society, 22 Albemarle Street): Lord Lingen, KCB (Ralph Robert Wheeler Lingen, Baron Lingen; former Permanent Secretary at the Treasury)
  • 1896, July 13 (Asiatic Society, 22 Albemarle Street): The Rt Hon. John Morley, MP
  • 1897, July 15 (Asiatic Society, 22 Albemarle Street): Sir Edward Poynter, PRA
  • 1898, October 20 (Society of Antiquaries): The Lord Bishop of London (Mandell Creighton).
  • 1899, October 30 (Society of Antiquaries): Sir William R. Anson, Bart., DCL, Warden of All Souls' College, and MP for Oxford University.
  • 1900, October 30 (Society of Antiquaries): The Rt Hon. Herbert Henry Asquith, QC, MP
  • 1901, October 24 (Society of Antiquaries): Sir Richard Jebb, MP
  • 1902, October 14 (Society of Antiquaries): Dr Thomas Hodgkin
  • 1903, October 23 (Royal Asiatic Society, 22 Albemarle Street): Professor Samuel Henry Butcher
  • 1904, October 27 (Society of Antiquaries): Sir Robert Finlay, KC, MP, the Attorney-General
  • 1905, October 24 (Society of Antiquaries): The Rt Revd George Forrest Browne, DD, Bishop of Bristol
  • 1906, October 30 (Society of Antiquaries): The Earl of Halsbury (Hardinge Stanley Giffard, first earl of Halsbury)
  • 1907, October 29 (Society of Antiquaries): Professor Percy Gardner
  • 1908, October 27 (Society of Antiquaries): Lord Cromer (Evelyn Baring, First Earl Cromer)
  • 1909, October 19 (Society of Antiquaries): Professor Gilbert Murray
  • 1910, October 23 (Society of Antiquaries): Sir Cecil Harcourt-Smith, former Director
  • 1911, November 7 (Society of Antiquaries): The Rt Revd the Dean of Westminster (Herbert Edward Ryle)
  • 1912, October 29 (Society of Antiquaries): George A. Macmillan, chairman of the Managing Committee
  • 1913, October 28 (Society of Antiquaries): Mr James Bryce, OM (President of the British Academy)
  • 1914
  • 1915, November 23 (Society of Antiquaries): George A. Macmillan, chairman of the Managing Committee
  • 1916, November 28 (Society of Antiquaries): George A. Macmillan, chairman of the Managing Committee
  • 1917, November 27 (Society of Antiquaries): George A. Macmillan, chairman of the Managing Committee
  • 1918, November 26 Society of Antiquaries): George A. Macmillan, chairman of the Managing Committee

The BSA and Egypt: Naukratis

Ernest Gardner had excavated with Flinders Petrie at Naukratis in the western Delta prior to his admission as a Student to the BSA. In 1898 the BSA's director David Hogarth was alerted to the damage to the site and, with the support of the Society of Dilettanti, conducted further excavations in 1899. Hogarth was assisted by two BSA students: Campbell Cowan Edgar (1870-1938) of Oriel College, Oxford (and a graduate of Glasgow University where he had been taught by Jebb and Murray), and Charles Douglas Edmonds (b. c. 1876) of Emmanuel College, Cambridge. Hogarth returned to the site in 1903 for a final season.

Bibliography
Gardner, E. A. 1886. "Excavations at Naukratis." American Journal of Archaeology and of the History of the Fine Arts 2: 180-81. [JSTOR]
—. 1888. Naukratis II. London: Egypt Exploration Fund.
Edgar, C. C. 1898/9a. "Excavations at Naukratis. B. The inscribed and painted pottery." Annual of the British School at Athens 5: 47-65.
—. 1898/9b. "Excavations at Naukratis. C. A relief." Annual of the British School at Athens 5: 65-67.
Gutch, C. 1898/9. "Excavations at Naukratis. D. The terracottas." Annual of the British School at Athens 5: 67-97.
Hogarth, D. G. 1898/9. "Excavations at Naukratis. A. Sites and buildings." Annual of the British School at Athens 5: 26-46.
Hogarth, D. G., H. L. Lorimer, and C. C. Edgar. 1905. "Naukratis, 1903." Journal of Hellenic Studies 25: 105–36. [JSTOR]