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ANZLS Program Now Available

Courtoom Scene, Sydney, 1817 (wiki)

The program for the 39th Annual Conference of the Australian and New Zealand Law and History Society, “an intensive 1 day world-wide gathering devoted to law in history” on December 9, is now available here.  The keynote plenary sessions are Joshua Getzler, Oxford University, on “Six Nations of the Grand River, military feudalism, and the roots of ‘honour of the Crown’”; Miranda Johnson, Otago University, on “Reckoning with a Pacific empire state: Race, nation, citizenship and the idea of New Zealand”; and a closing address by Dame Sian Elias, former Chief Justice of New Zealand.

--Dan Ernst

ANZLHS 2020

 [We have the following announcement.  DRE]

39th Annual Conference of the Australian and New Zealand Law and History Society

Join us for an intensive 1 day world-wide gathering devoted to law in history on 9 December 2020, hosted by Event Services at the University of Auckland, Aotearoa New Zealand

Keynote plenary sessions will feature:

Joshua Getzler, Oxford University, on "Six Nations of the Grand River, military feudalism, and the roots of 'honour of the Crown'"

Miranda Johnson, Otago University, on "Reckoning with a Pacific empire state: Race, nation, citizenship and the idea of New Zealand"

A Closing Address by Dame Sian Elias, former Chief Justice of New Zealand

The organisers have accepted 39 individual papers and 7 panel presentations. They will be run in four concurrent parallel sessions throughout the day. The programme will be uploaded to the ANZLHS website page shortly.

The timings will be specified according to the NZDT time zone - which is UTC+13. We have attempted to time presentations so that are as reasonable as possible for the presenters (but will be difficult for some). The conference will begin at 9.00am and conclude at 7.00pm NZDT.

To cover Event Services charges, and to ensure a high quality of digital platform delivery utilising Zoom, Vimeo and Twilio, we are asking all attendees to pay a modest registration fee. In addition, the rules of the ANZLHS require all presenters to pay the Society's 2020 annual subscription. So 'full member registration' applies to presenters who have paid the 2020 Society subscription in advance; 'full non-member registration' applies to presenters (some of whom will have been members in the past) who have not yet paid the 2020 Society subscription. We are waiving registration fees for postgraduate student presenters. The portal for registrations will be launched shortly through the website page. The cost for registration is as follows in $NZ:

Full member registration: $130; Full non-member registration: $ 215; Full-time post graduate presenters: Fee waiver; Attendance only registration: $130

Graduate students are invited to apply for Kercher Scholarships. Five scholarship awards will be made that may adorn your cv even though there is no monetary element to the scholarship this year. Please apply to Katherine Sanders: k.sanders@auckland.ac.nz by 20 November if you have not already applied. Graduate attendees may also wish to enter their paper for the Forbes Society Prize. The Society's peer-reviewed journal law&history will consider submissions from those who present papers at the conference. In the meantime further information about the conference may be gleaned from David Williams: dv.williams@auckland.ac.nz

Mike Debenham, Mr. New Zealand

Bodybuilder, Fitness, Muscle Man,Mike Debenham, New Zealand






Lake Matheson - New Zealand

Sitting in the middle of a farmland of cows and sheep, six kilometers west of Fox Glacier township, in the West Coast region of the South Island, lies New Zealand's most famous photograph stop, Lake Matheson. A small lake that earned its fame not for its dark brown waters. Not for its west coast rain forest. Not even for the abundance of water birds and other wildlife. But famous for the reflected mirror-like images of the twin peaks of Mount Cook and Mount Tasman in its dark waters.

This ancient lake was formed about 14,000 years ago, when the Fox Glacier retreated towards the sea and carved a slight depression in the landscape that eventually became filled with water. The waters of Lake Matheson are dark brown. The discoloring effect of the water is caused by the natural leaching of organic matter from the native forest floor surrounding the lake. So on a calm day, the dark hue of the water creates the ideal reflective surface, while the participation of the surrounding forest gives the lake shelter, context and protection from the wind providing a smooth surface to produce a perfect natural mirror. Set against the backdrop of the perfectly positioned Mount Cook (or Aoraki in Maori) and Mount Tasman to reflect in the glassy lake, Lake Matheson ultimately earned itself another name, the “Mirror Lake”, which appropriately describes what it is stands for.

Visitors from around the world have come to the lake to enjoy the reflected view of the Southern Alps. Year after year, it never failed to attract more people (travelers/passers-by), especially photographers, to stop, film, photograph to get dozens of amazing vistas of this jewel in New Zealand's scenic crown.

There are two particular designated 'perfect' spot for reflection photos around the lake, the Jetty View Point and the Reflection Island. Visiting just after dawn when the water often sits incredibly still and during the afternoon sunset is the most ideal time to take a picture. Offering infinite photo opportunities, it truly is a “photographer's paradise”- you just can't get enough of her.

So they say, and so do I, nature successfully joined the right elements to create one of the most stunning and iconic views in New Zealand. While Google will give you the numerous search results of this lake, still, the best way to achieve a meaningful experience of such a magnificent lake is to see it “up close and personal”.

Many Happy Trails

I am a bit biased, I admit. I am from California and am proud of the fact. We have everything you could ever want -- beaches, mountains, small towns, cities like San Francisco. What do you like to do? We have it. You like picking mushrooms, deer hunting, swimming, diving, surfing, hiking? We have it. So, when I say that New Zealand reminds me of California, that is a good thing.

We have been hiking almost every day. It has been great. First we hiked near the sea, then in fern laden forests, over mountains, and through gorges. We have seen every different kind of terrain and climate. It snowed on us a few days ago. We went swimming a few days before that.

If you like hiking (tramping in NZ terms) you will love New Zealand. If you like beaches, you will love NZ. If you like skiing or mountains, you guessed it. You will still love New Zealand. It is actually smaller than California; it is about the size of Colorado. There are only 4 million people. The largest city is small by our standards. It is great. As I mentioned before, there are 10 sheep for every one person.

A couple of things we have enjoyed besides hiking.

Meat pies.(and beer!)

Tiny horses (or ponies). 

Seeing where the hobbits live. That's me being Gollum (in the rain).


Awesome Beaches.

 Strange mushrooms. 

And of course....a couple of hiking pics!



So, I know I sound like a Chamber of Commerce ad for New Zealand, but I love it here! I have a lot to say about it and although this post is short and photo heavy, once I get back into "real" internet land, I will talk more about WHY I love it so much. Until then, Happy Tramping! 

Oh and a very late Happy Easter to everyone! I have been out of blogland lately, but am looking forward to reading everyone's posts once I get home!

How To Peacefully Coexist

So, I think I mentioned that we rented a camper-van and are driving around the North Island of New Zealand. 

Have you ever been in a tiny box with the same person for a very, very long time? You sleep in it; you (sometimes) eat in it; you put your dirty socks in it; you drive everywhere in it. It is not self contained, aka, it does not have a shower or a toilet or a power supply, so you spend a lot of time with your head light strapped to your head, playing rummikub inside the van (down by the river).

You also spend a lot of time fighting over who's going to drive, directions/where to go, why so and so's stinky socks are sitting on so and so's backpack, why so and so forgot to plug in or unplug the fridge, where did so and so put the cups.....and so on.

And there is no place to go. You can go and sit in the front to "be alone", instead of sitting in the back. We have made a joke about it -- the front is the study, the back is the living room.

The problem is compounded by the fact that it gets dark around 6, so there is not really anything to do after that. Also, the camping grounds often close their gates around 6 (it is going on winter here), so you can't even leave and go do something. Also, some of them don't even have lights or a table or anything! So you have no choice than to...you guessed it...sit in the van!

We have also only had one place with hot showers, so not only is it dark in the van, but it's pretty smelly! So, why do we subject ourselves to this, you are wondering. Well, despite all above statements, it's FUN! We can go wherever we want, whenever we want to. We can even drive till we drop and then sleep pretty much wherever! We have spent the night near the beach, in prime forest locations, with great views and...even in a parking lot. We have all our food with us -- I can have a ham a cheese sandwich ready in a jiff, no matter where we are! We don't have to carry our backpacks or find out when the next bus is! We can go to all the nooks and crannies that public transportation doesn't go to! It's GREAT! Such freedom!

Anyway, it's been 7 days so far -- we have 15 to go. We haven't killed each other YET (keep your fingers crossed for me). I will check back in a week or so and we will see how it's going then, shall we!

Today's post is part of the A-Z blogfest. H is for How. You can find the rest HERE

I leave you with a photo:

Snell's Bay



PS -- Deirdra over at A Storybook World just awarded me this. Thanks Deirdra! 


Great News (and No Net)

I have great news! I was featured over at For The Love of Blogs!! This is like the granddaddy of all good blogs! If you are looking for a new blog to read, new things to learn, fashion, food and fun, this is a great site. AND all the folks who are part of the community over there are really great as well. Thanks girls!

As a side note, as gung ho as I was about the A-Z Blogfest, I have some sad news to report. There is not very much wifi in New Zealand. I KNOW! I thought it would be no problem getting online, but alas, I was mistaken! Sometimes you can find internet cafes, but the going rate seems to be about 8 dollars an hour. And as much as I love blogging, I am just not sure it is worth that much. So. Darn it! I had such great plans! However, I will probably keep up the letter theme just for fun. As you can see, today is G for Great!

Right now, not only are we deprived of the internet, but we are driving around the North Island of New Zealand in a camper-van. What an adventure! The camping facitilies range from a dark "parking lot" to nice ones, like the one we are in now, which has hot showers (NOT common), laundry (yay for not being smelly for a little while) and wifi (for 8 dollars an hour! This will not be a long post *wink wink*)

We spent the last week touring Northland, which is the area north of Auckland. We did a lot of hiking -- we have been *trying* to hike a little each day so we will be "in shape" when we get home (just in time for summer and bathing suit season).

I am going crazy thinking while hiking: adding things to my mile long To Do List, thinking about how and when I will get a job, thinking of the people to visit and the things to see while I am home. It will be really nice to unpack and at least be in one place for a couple of weeks. Then I will have to go back to work!

I will leave you with some photos of the New Zealand scenery.

As seen from the back window of the camper-van.

Northland -- Snells Bay

Typical NZ Resident
Fun fact about New Zealand: There are about 4 million people and 40 million sheep. This = 10 sheep per person!

New Zealand: Paradise for Food Lovers

New Zealand cuisine is as diverse as it gets. Determined mainly by local ingredients and seasonal variations, New Zealand's cuisine is generally described as the Pacific Rim cuisine with dash of influences from Europe, Asia and Polynesia.

Auckland and the far north region of the country have several specialities, such as citrus fruits, nuts, avocados and Asian vegetables. Tarakihi, hapuku and flounder are the common type of fish in the north; whereas in the colder region of the south there's more emphasis on sole, groper, blue cod and turbot.

In the regions of Taranaki, Hawke's Bay, Wairarapa, Canterbury and Southland good-quality lamb and beef is easily available. In such areas cervena venison, which is a low-fat, healthy kind of red meat, is also found. If you are into healthy but delicious red meat then get your air tickets to New Zealand and devour on these scrumptious offerings.

For wine lovers, airlines to New Zealand are like airlines to the paradise. A number of country's districts specialise in grape-growing. Each region has its own speciality wines that are offered with amazing local food combinations. Let's have a look at some of the eating joints in New Zealand that are worth a visit.

Mt Maunganui's Providores Urban Food Store has a casual charm but with the serious dose of culinary quality. Patrons can surf videos flickered across the walls as they choose between lip-smacking home-smoked meats, sticky orange jams and buttery fresh-baked pastries.


Stewart Island's Kai Kart is popular for dishing out incredible fish and chips. The tiny eating joint serves fresh blue cod and yummy battered mussels. Enjoy the alfresco dining experience with winds blowing up in your face.


Niagara Falls Café in the Catlins is located in a restored 19th-century schoolhouse. The place serves lip-smacking coffee and delicious cheesecake along with local wines and beers. The café also features an art gallery that makes your visit to the place quite interesting.


If you are in Queenstown and looking for a quick snack, you can't go past Fergburger. A favourite burger joint among the local crowd, it is a must visit for Queenstown visitors. If fancy and sophistication is what you are looking for, then walk into the Solera Vino, a fine-dining French restaurant that is known for its delicate flavours, amazing wine and perfect service. Queenstown is on every visitor's itinerary to the country and even if you don't have it on, you can easily book cheap tickets in any of New Zealand's domestic flights and land up in Queenstown to experience the gourmet pleasure.

BSA Students in Australia and New Zealand

Former BSA students had a major impact on the teaching of classics in England outside Oxford and Cambridge (e.g. Birmingham, Liverpool, Manchester, London). Three former students held chairs in Australia and New Zealand.

  • H. Arnold Tubbs (born c. 1865; Pembroke College, Oxford) worked with this Cyprus Exploration Fund and had to leave during the final season of excavations in Cyprus in 1890 to take up the position of professor of Classics at University College, Auckland, New Zealand.
  • William John Woodhouse (1866-1937; The Queen's College, Oxford) had worked on the Megalopolis excavations and then conducted a survey in Aetolia. He was assistant lecturer in Bangor and then lecturer in St Andrews. In 1901 he was appointed professor Greek at the University of Sydney. He was also the honorary curator of the Nicholson Museum of Antiquities (1903-37).
  • Cecil A. Scutt (1889-1961; Clare College, Cambridge) had been admitted to the BSA just before the outbreak of the First World War. He was an assistant master at Repton for two terms (1915-16), and joined Military Intelligence in Macedonia; he was invalided out of the army in 1918. In 1919 he was appointed professor of Classical Philology, University of Melbourne (1920-55).

Passage New Zealand to Fiji

10 days - 1200 Nautical Miles

Route from NZ to SavuSavu Fiji

After six months on land I wasn't so sure what to expect from our upcoming passage to Fiji.  Would we get right back into the swing of things or would it take us days / weeks to adjust?  I was also a little apprehensive about our next year of cruising.  New Zealand had spoiled us; cheap phones, fast internet, endless grocery stores, and let's not forget not a single day of sea sickness!  All of this in one of the most spectacular places I've ever been.  On the other hand I was ready to go.  I was tired of traffic, of "crowds" (any population over 100 now constitutes as a crowd!), and especially of spending so much money.  I was ready to relax again, swaying in a tropical breeze reading endless books.

Ready or not, we departed Opua, New Zealand on Sunday May 8th.  This passage would be different for us in that we also had two "crew" aboard.  Chris's cousin Andy and Andy's 14 year old daughter, Riley, had joined us from Alaska.  We hadn't yet cruised with other people on board and weren't sure how "small" the boat would get. We headed out of the Bay of Islands with two boats following (MagMell and Stardust) and a couple more to leave the next day (Ascension and Freebird).  It's always comforting to know we wouldn't be out there alone!

While the passage ended up being pretty unremarkable, there were a few days of nervousness at the beginning when Chris spotted a huge "bomb" on the weather fax to the East of us (Bomb = cyclone = high wind and large waves = YIKES).  It was far enough away that we were currently quite safe, but we had to keep a close eye to ensure it didn't move our way.  It also meant that we didn't make much Easting in our first days out as we didn't want to risk heading anywhere in the vicinity of the storm. By Friday we had safely cleared it and could head East (not to mention breathe easier).  Of course by then the wind wasn't fully cooperating, making it a struggle to get East.

This was Andy and Riley's first sailing ocean passage.  They handled it great.  Boredom being their biggest hurtle.  Riley would play hour upon hour of electronic Yahtzee while Andy would spend time staring out at the vast Ocean while listening to Music.  I loved it when Andy said to Riley, "Don't you want to stand up and look around?"  She replied, "Why?  It's just water!!!".  I couldn't agree more!

It was a bit strange for Chris and I as we tried to get into the cruising groove with two extra people aboard.  Cruising with four defiantly has its bonuses as well as inconveniences.  Andy was a superb helper; cooking, doing dishes, and providing us with an additional night watcher.  We had added entertainment with Yahtzee tournaments and Wheel of Fortune championships.  I'll admit though, that I missed the cruising rhythms and space of just the two of us.  Also I felt like Chris and I became huge nags - as so many things on the boat had to be done a certain way.  I hated constantly pestering and nagging about one thing or another - and I'm sure it got old with Andy and Riley as well (although they handled it like stars!).  In total it all worked out well and we enjoyed their company and were enjoying the added entertainment of viewing cruising through their eyes!

Hove-to:
Basically, setting the sails and rudder such that the boat is not making way.
As usual we had radio contact with the other vessels making the passage.  We were all quite near though we never saw another boat.  The other vessels were making landfall in Suva (on Vita Levu), while we were heading to Savusavu (on Vanua Levu).  We had a few slow days; slow enough that Andy asked, "At what point do you start the engine?".  Ha Ha.  Basically, we have to be just about standing still to motor (or trying to avoid a weather system).  At one point Andy even offered to pay for the diesel if we would just motor!  They were able to take advantage of the light winds when we hove-to and Andy and Riley jumped over board for a swim and bath.

About three to four days out of Savusavu it started to warm up.  Ahh yes, to be back in the tropics - foul weather gear traded for shorts, beanie caps swapped for sun hats ... heading back to paradise.

About two days out Chris and I started talking about potentially having to slow the boat down.  This was a bit of a shock to Andy and Riley, who after 8 days on a bumpy sailboat were ready for land.  "What do you mean you're going to slow down?" Andy asked.  We tried to explain that if it didn't look like we could make it during daylight then we have to slow down so that we arrive the following morning.  As it turned out we did end up reducing sail to slow the boat.  Andy still wasn't convinced, trying to persuade us that speed was better.  But we couldn't have made it in  daylight on the 17th, so our best option was to slow and try to time it for a morning arrival on the 18th.  As Murphy's Law would go - just as we attempt to slow, the winds continued to rise, and we couldn't get the boat to go slow enough!  So, around midnight we had to heave-to outside the islands and wait for morning.  Because the winds had picked up so had the swell - making it an uncomfortable night as the boat rolled side to side in the swell and the main sail slammed and banged echoing through the entire boat.  In the morning I asked Andy, " So, after last night don't you wish we had slowed down earlier so we wouldn't have had to heave-to?".  He still wouldn't give in - he preferred making speed for the guarantee that land would be there when the sun rose!

It was a beautiful sail into the bay as we looked up to green hillsides scattered with palm trees.  We had to practically drag Riley on deck (from bed) to take in the sights.  I think that early in the morning she wasn't impressed!

At 8:30am on Wednesday, May 18th (1200 nautical miles later), we picked up a mooring ball in Savusavu Bay, immensely enjoying the now steady boat.  Chris and I got a great chuckle when Riley said "Is that the WHOLE town?" as we all stood on deck peering at the 4 or 5 buildings on the single road across the bay.  Savusavu is one of the bigger towns Chris and I have been to during our 1-1/2 years of cruising!!!

Art & Penny do New Zealand + Chris and I go South

covering South-East Coast, North Island and far South, South Island

2/26/05 - 3/24/05
by KT

Feb 26 - We headed to Auckland to hook up with our friend from Ventura, Phil (who now resides in New Zealand).  We all traveled down to Kadikadi where we enjoyed a great dinner with some of Phil's friends and a few folks Chris had met in his New Zealand journeys two years back.

More New Zealand Highlights


Feb 27 - Back to Auckland, where we hook up with Robin and Duncan (Whisper) for beers and Sushi.  Overnight stay at the now very familiar Auckland airport holiday park!

Feb 28 - Airport pickup of Art and Penny and then back to Whangarei.  Our fourth Christmas this year as we receive canned chicken, "just add water" mixes, silicone bake wear, and much much more!  Lunch, naps, catching up, dinner, and off to bed.

March 1 - And we're off!  Back to Auckland to visit the Auckland Museum which was hosting a quilting show (Penny is a HUGE (and fantastic) quilter).  Another amazing museum (Chris and I are so impressed with the New Zealand museums).  Drive on to Hamilton.

March 2 - Visit to the Hamilton Gardens.  In Cambridge we stop at a terrific quilting store and Chris discovers Vintage Aged Gouda (at the wine/cheese store next door) ... which quickly becomes one of our favorite cheeses.  Continue driving towards the Rotorua / Lake Taupo area.  We stayed in between the two at Golden Springs, where we soaked in thermal pools, KT learned to cross-stitch, and the boys (Chris and Art) cooked a great BBQ dinner.

Hamilton Gardens

March 3 - Hike and Boat ride in the Waimangu Volcanic Valley.  Take SH5 out to Napier (East Cost).  Enjoy Pizza and Tapas for dinner.

Waimangu Volcanic Valley

March 4 - Explore Napier (store browsing and internet use).  Visit a couple wineries in Hastings, where we enjoy a wine and cheese lunch in the vineyard!  Drive on to Carterton, where Art and Penny stay in a terrific B&B and Chris and I camp in the B&B's yard!!!

March 5 - Visit the street fair in Martinborough (which ends up being HUGE).

March 6 - Drive to Wellington.  A quick hour in the Te Papa Museum before catching the ferry over to Picton.  Art and Penny treat us to a hotel stay (hooray real beds)

March 7 - Meet up with Ralph and Donna (Ocean Girl) for coffee before heading to Nelson.  (Another treat from Art and Penny as they put us up with them in the B&B)

March 8 - After breakfast with Art & Penny, we say goodbye.  Art & Penny are joining a group of eight or so on a 3 week day-hiking tour.  We suspect we'll see them here and there along the way and then again in Christchurch before they depart.  Chris & I head South, planning on 6 to 8 hours of driving in order to get far South where we will begin our leisurely tour.  The Billavan has other ideas as it stutters & hiccups along.  Eventually we end up backtracking about 100 clicks (km) to Christchurch where we hope to get the car fixed.

March 9 - A visit to the Mitsubishi dealer, who sends us to their partner shop, who can't see us until the 10th.  We spend the day walking around Christchurch, visiting the art center, Canterbury Museum, and Botanic Gardens.

Christchurch New Zealand

March 10 - Drop the car off at the mechanic (the car is of course now running perfect).  Chris runs into another guy who has the exact same car, and is apparently having a similar problem!  More walking around Christchurch, browsing sports shops, while Chris continues to check in on the car. Turns out they find NOTHING wrong (of course).  We decide to just go anyway, what the heck have we got to lose?  Leave late afternoon and head South ... right into a cold front, and man is it COLD! We even see the wind change directions - man is it eerie, I was ready for a twister to start up right then and there!  End our travels at a holiday park in Timaru.

March 11 - Continue south along the coast, stopping in Moeraki to check out the touristy Moeraki boulders.  Drive out Shag Point (mostly because of its name), where we spot two yellow-eyed penguins in the far far distance (not moving because they are molting).  Continue on to Dunedin and the Otago Peninsula.  Sneak a peak at the Larnach Castle (as we are too cheap to actually pay to go inside) and then head to Sandfly Beach for penguin watching.  Spend about 2-3 hours in the Penguin hide ... but only spot one penguin (who, like the others, isn't moving, or fun at all to watch).  As it is raining and we forgot our rain jackets in the car we finally give up :(   Stay the night in Dunedin.

Moeraki boulders, Dunedin, Otago Peninsula & Sandfly Beach

March 12 - Tunnel Beach Walk.  Drive the Southern Scenic Route (through the Catlins).  Stop at Nugget Point (check out the playing sea lions & lighthouse), Owaka Quilt Store, Purakaunui Waterfall, and finally Curio Bay.  Curio bay is host to the fossil/petrified forest.  Next, it's up to the Penguin hide and more waiting ... man is it COLD!  Finally after about 2 hours ONE yellow-eyed penguin comes in (from fishing).  And HOORAY he walks, waddles, jumps, and looks around, before disappearing into his nest!

Tunnel Beach Walk, Nugget Point, Purakaunui Waterfall & Curio Bay

March 13 - Drive out to Waipapa Point (another lighthouse and more sea lions).  About five of us are on the beach taking photos of two sea lions playing, when one of the big guys decides he is territorial and CHASES (yes chases, and damn he moves fast) us!!!    Car is acting up, but we finally make it to Te Anau (where we plan to park it for 4 days or so).

Waipapa Point Sea Lions and Scotland Cows

March 14 - Although the day starts with a low hanging thick realm of fog, by 11am it is crystal clear blue.  We relax about Te Anau; taking pictures of the lake, visiting the wildlife (bird) sanctuary, doing a bit of laundry, and just enjoying the fantastic weather.

Lake Te Anau

March 15 - Bike and Cruise Milford Sound.  We end up being the only two people on this tour, which is terrific.  We are picked up in Te Anau and driven up Milford Road to Hummer Tunnel.  On the other side of the tunnel we hop on the bikes and ride ALL DOWNHILL into Milford, where we jump on a small cruise boat and head out for a 2 hour Milford Sound Cruise.  Our guide picks us up and drives us back up to the Hummer Tunnel, and this time we ride ALL DOWNHILL down the other side!  After lunch next to turquoise rapids of a river, we are driven back to Te Anau, making lots of photograph stops, including Mirror Lake and a Nature Walk through a forest of greens like we've never seen.  We also end up running into Doug & Angela (Solstice) at the holiday park!

Bike & Cruise Milford Sound

March 16 - Kayaking Doubtful Sound.  Another outstanding tour.  We are picked up in Te Anau, and along with 6 other people, taken on a 45 minute boat ride across Lake Manapouri.  Next a short scenic bus ride over to another boat in Doubtful Sounds.  The boat takes us deep into the Fiord (yes both Milford and Doubtful are really Fiords and not Sounds... they were improperly named a long time again).  We hop into kayaks and enjoy a beautiful, flat, scenic day of kayaking Doubtful.  We get to see it all again as we make our way back to Te Anau ... we just never get tired of the views, seem they change hourly!!!

Kayaking Doubtful Sound

March 17 - On to Wanaka.  Art and Penny's group are also in Wanaka, so we hook up with them later in the afternoon and enjoy a great dinner with their group.

Untitled

March 18 - Diamond Lake Track (hike) in Wanaka, with Art & Penny (and their group).  This hike takes us up, up, & up, providing 360° views over Lake Wanaka and into Mount Aspiring National Park.  We enjoy another terrific dinner with the group and some hot tubbing with Art & Penny.

Diamond Lake Track

March 19 - We're back on our own again (Art and Penny have headed towards Queenstown).  We hitchhike into Mount Aspiring National Park, and go on one of our best hikes yet ... Rob Roy Valley.  Even with the overcast skies and light rains we are thoroughly impressed with this tramp.  We're lucky enough to find an easy ride back to our holiday park, and therefore treat ourselves to dinner out (with the money we saved by not having to pay for the shuttle into the Park!).

Rob Roy Valley Hike

March 20 - A visit to Wanaka's Puzzling World in the morning and then on to Mount Cook.  It's a holiday park with a view as we look down a valley directly at the towering Mount Cook.  And what a treat, not only do the clouds lift enough for us to see the top, but the sunset warms the sky with changing shades of pinks and reds.

Mount Cook South Island, NZ

March 21 - We wanted to do the Hooker Valley Track (at Mount Cook), but the low clouds covered Mount Cook, and we figured it would be pointless if we couldn't see the views.  Plus we had departed Wanaka a day early, so we were ahead of schedule.  Instead we relaxed around the holiday park.

March 22 - Still some clouds in the sky, but we figured it was as good as it was going to get, so we headed off to do the Hooker Valley Track.  We knew that Art and Penny (and group) would also be doing this hike today, but we had no idea what time they would start.  Just at the entrance to the track, Chris looked out and saw their two distinct white vans making there way up the Mount Cook road ... we decided to wait and gave Art and Penny a pleasant surprise as we stood their waving when they pulled up.   After the hike we departed ways again, Chris and I heading towards Christchurch.  We hadn't decided how far we'd drive, but the van ended up running great, so we made it all the way into Christchurch.

Hooker Valley Track

March 23 - We had an appointment at the mechanic later in the afternoon, so we entertained ourselves with a movie at New Zealand's largest movie screen before heading over to the hotel where we were meeting Art and Penny.  After our hellos, Chris took the car to the mechanic, Art and Penny went out to explore the museum and gardens, and I kicked back with my computer and the T.V.! Of course the car was running great (now that we were somewhere we could actually get it fixed), so the mechanic couldn't do anything!!!

March 24 - Art, Penny, Chris and I shuttled out to Akaroa for "swimming with the dolphins".  While we spotted a few (cute little guys, the Hector dolphin is the smallest dolphin), we didn't get a chance to get real close or interact with them ... it was a fun adventure none-the-less!

Akaroa and Swimming with the Dolphins

March 25 - Art and Penny were off ... heading home.  After all our goodbyes Chris and I headed towards Picton.  Although we made a few stops, we just kept on driving, actually making it to Picton that night, and taking a night ferry over to Wellington.

March 26 - We started making our way back 'home'.  We hadn't planned on driving so much in one day, but the van was more or less running okay, and it was raining so we weren't real enthusiastic to get out of the car ... we ended up making it all the way to Auckland ... where we stayed at our "favorite" holiday park.

March 27  - Easter Sunday!  We called up Robin and Duncan and met them at their boat, Whisper.  We were lucky enough to find a cafe open on a holiday Sunday where we caught up over breakfast.  We hung out with Robin and Duncan all day and ended up staying over on Whisper.  We were glad to spend the time with them as they will be staying in New Zealand this next year instead of moving on (with us) ... so we'll miss them!

March 28 - Back to Whangarei.  Hooray, home again!  After all this time in the van, the boat felt like a mansion!

Beyond - Since then we have been getting the boat ready ... double checking systems, washing the bottom, provisioning, etc etc etc.  We've also taken time-out for BBQ's with our friends, and for a few goodbyes (to those that aren't following the same track as Chris and I).

Fiordland New Zealand Video

We explored Milford Sound via a bike-and-boat tour and Doubtful Sound via a boat-and-kayak tour. Fiordland is an amazing area of the world to explore - beyond breathtaking!



Exploring New Zealand with Sally & Mark

(covering Central & Southern North Island + Northern South Island)
1/22/05 - 2/14/05
by KT

W.I.P.  JOURNAL:  This journal piece is not quite yet complete.  We are frantically trying to get all our pictures uploaded before we depart New Zealand, and therefore lose our cheap & fast internet connections.  In order to accomplish that goal we are posting this journal with mostly just pictures, and sparse outline-like text ... we hope that we will be able to update the text at a later date.

Jan 22 - Birthday dinner for Chris with Island Sonata ... cake and pizza (YUM).  Chris got kauri wood pieces (for carving) and new shorts (yipee).

Exploring New Zealand

Jan 24 - Early airport pickup.  Drive to house Sally and Mark have via house swap, in Lake Taupo. Another 'lucky' car breakdown in Cambridge (where car breaks down just as we arrive at gas station with Auto Supplies store next door).  House is HUGE!  We have lunch in town and then enjoy fantastic sunset on the lake.

Jan 25 - Volcanic activity day:  Craters of the moon walk.  Thermal wonderland (amazing colors), and Kerosene Creek (where Chris impresses us with his knowledge about brain amoebas).

Thermal Activity

Jan 26 - Tonagriro National Park.  2 Hr waterfall hike (Taranaki Falls).  Another terrific lake sunset.

Taranaki Falls

Jan 27 - Tongariro Crossing (8hr tramp) ... terrific tramp, but very tiring.  Rocky, volcanic, colorful lakes.  (OH yeah, yet ANOTHER hose breaks on the car (and we are "lucky" again that it breaks just as we pull into the parking lot!).

Tongariro - Taranaki Falls & Lake Taupo

Jan 28 - Finally a day of just Relaxing and lounging (hooray!).  We watch T.V., Mark and Sally go for a walk on Hot Water Beach and KT does lots of Video editing (I'm making a video of our first year of cruising ... slow going as I don't really know how to use the software yet, we figure I have about 20 hours of my time into the first 6 minutes of video (yikes, at this rate the year 1 video should be done by the time we finish our 5th year of cruising!)

Jan 29 - Chris and Mark do some car work.  We all visit Huka Falls (and go for a walk/hike along the river).  We check out the Jet Boats and Prawn farm.  Island Sonata shows up and spends the evening with us.

Huka Falls, Huka Jet, & Bungy Jumping

Jan 30 - House cleaning, laundry, and relaxing (we're preparing to head down to the South Island). Chris, Mark, & Sally walk down to the beach, where they watch some boat racing.  I work on the video some more.  Island Sonata spends another night.

Jan 31 - Drive SH1 from Lake Taupo to Lower Hutt (just outside Wellington) ... about 5 hour drive. Dinner with friends of Mark & Sally in Lower Hutt.

Feb 1 -  Te Papa museum in Wellington (very very neat museum).  It's an overcast/rainy day.  Take the ferry over to Picton (South Island).  Spend the night in Picton (with lovely train track overhead ... ugh).

Feb 2 - Water taxi/ferry out to Ship's Cove to do part of the Queen Charlotte track.  5hr tramp to Fernaux Lodge (where we catch the taxi/ferry back).  Jump in the car for a scenic drive overlooking the Marlborough Sounds.  "Camp" at a farm-style holiday park near Havelock.

Queen Charlotte Track, Marlborough Sounds & Old Macdonald farm

Feb 3 -  Drive to Abel Tasman.  Stay at Old Macdonald's Farm (holiday park with pigs, lamas, cows, and sheep).

Feb 4 - Day of kayaking in the Abel Tasman ... beautiful turquoise waters and soft white sand beaches.  Check out "split apple rock".  Perfect weather today, very enjoyable.  Meet up with Robin and Duncan (Whisper) in Motueka for dinner.

Kayaking in Abel Tasman

Feb 5 - Lots of driving today ... drive through Nelson, then South to West Coast.  Stop in Westport to visit the Seal Colony, and in Punakaiki to check out the Pancake Rocks.  Continue on to Greymouth where we "make camp" and enjoy a terrific sunset over the beach.  Amazing views along the entire West Coast.

Westport, Punakaiki, & Greymouth

Feb 6 - More driving ... Drive to Kaikoura via SH7, with a stop in Hamner Springs where Sally originally  wanted to visit the Hot Springs, but it was a wicked hot day, so that idea was thrown aside. Kaikoura is a neat town .. visit to the Seal Colony there too.

Feb 7 - Short drive up to Blenheim, where we rent bicycles and go wine touring.  Bit windy, and otherwise another day of fantastic weather.

Blenheim Wine Country

Feb 8 -  Take the ferry back over to Wellington (North Island), and drive drive drive ... all the way back to Lake Taupo House.  After the last three days, I never want to get in the car again!

Feb 9 - Relax, and rejuvenate!  NO DRIVING!

Feb 10 - Get the house cleaned up, do some laundry, and leave the house for good ... drive to Waitomo.

Feb 11 - Enjoy a few shorts walks in the morning (visiting a natural bridge and some caves).  In the afternoon join the Black Water Rafting Company for a FANTASTIC caving adventure which included an 100 foot abseiling, flying fox, tubing, tramping through water, sliding, slipping through holes/caves, and climbing waterfalls (oh yeah and millions of glow-worms).

Waitomo Photo Gallery

Feb 12 - On to Auckland ... enjoy our last lunch with Mark & Sally at Loaded Hog, where we run into Scott & Nancy (Apsara), who invited us out to Waiheke Island.  After dropping off Mark & Sally at the airport we ferry over to Waiheke and enjoyed dinner out with Scott & Nancy.

Feb 13 - Spend the day with Scott and Nancy on Waiheke, visiting a few wineries and going on a very different "Art Walk".

Waiheke Island Views & Art Walk Photo Gallery

Feb 14 - Chris and I finally head back to Whangarei ... hooray back home again, and very happy to see that Billabong did great in the three weeks without us!