July 27-August 1, 2011 -- After two weeks traveling around Europe I arrived in Tel Aviv, Israel for a six-day visit to what the New York Times calls the "Mediterranean's New Capital of Cool."
Tel Aviv is a secular, diverse city with packed beaches, the old port of Jaffa, one of the best nightlife scenes in the world, and lots of arts and culture. The city is more of a Miami on the Mediterranean than any similarities to the holy city on the hill to the east. More fun than frum. More rebellious than religious. More free spirit than spiritual.
I stayed at a wonderful hostel in the gritty Florentine neighborhood, which is being transformed from a run-down warehouse district into a hip, edgy area full of cool bars and trendy restaurants. The Florentine Backpackers Hostel on Elifelet Street has a huge terrace where fellow travelers can socialize with each other and the friendly staff, who are happy to direct hostelers to the beach for a dip in the warm water followed by a Matkot match, which is Israel's immensely popular paddle ball game. And if that is too much activity for one day you can relax under the shade at a beach bar while enjoying an ice cold Carlsberg beer and hummus dip and brushing up on your Hebrew. At least that is what I did.
But this is still Israel, so the conflict and political realities are never completely out of sight and mind. One of the marvels of Israeli society is that while the nation honors and remembers the victims of terrorism, there is a steadfast resolve to continue living and loving and embracing life. Israelis board buses, shop at markets, sip cappuccinos at cafes and dance the night away at the hottest clubs. It's as if the Israeli people are defiantly saying to the terrorists: "You can cowardly take innocent lives but you cannot take our way of life."
Between the Arab Spring and the American Autumn, there was the Israeli Summer. When I visited there one of the largest mass demonstrations in Israeli history was taking place. Young Israelis set up tents in cities across the country to protest the high cost of living -- especially high housing prices and lack of affordable housing. They were also protesting against the privatization of state-owned enterprises as well as addressing other social justice issues.
Daphne Leef, 25, started the movement in mid-July by being the first demonstrator to pitch a tent in Habima Square. After opening a Facebook page, thousands of others joined in and pitched tents along Rothschild Boulevard and in other cities from Haifa to Beersheba to Jerusalem to Eilat.
It was amazing to see so many tents set up along Rothschild Boulevard and inspiring to see so many young Israelis being politically active and demanding change.
A visit to Tel Aviv is not complete without a visit to the ancient port of Jaffa. The cobbled-stone alleyways and Arab flea market offer a striking contrast to the modern skyscrapers and bustling beaches of Tel Aviv. Jaffa's history goes all the way back to biblical times. It has been ruled by the Canaanites, Israelites, Romans, Crusaders, Ottomans and others.
Here are more photos from Tel Aviv-Yafo. Click here to see the set on Flickr.
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