Bayram Cigerli Blog

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Back in the Northern Hemisphere

Location: Abemama, Kiribati
Position: 00°24.18' N 173°54.50' E
Next Dest: Tarawa, Kiribati



After two weeks in Onotoa, we made an overnight trip to Tabiteuea (also called Tab-North). Again we were welcomed with huge smiles and many a "Mauri" (hello). In Tab-North they build two story
traditional huts (or houses) that are really amazing. I couldn't help but be reminded of the Tarzan tree house in Disneyland.

After a week in Tabiteuea another overnight trip (where we crossed the equator for the second time in our cruising career) brought us to Abemama. Being closer to Tarawa they get more yachts, so we aren't quite the spectacle that we were in the previous atolls, but we are still treated like Kings & Queens. We enjoyed a great feast and dancing last Wednesday ... by far the best village food we've
tasted to date! We also spent a hot & dusty day motor biking the entire atoll - 36 miles end to end!

You know you are adjusting to the tropical climates when on an overcast day you jump into the water and think "it's too cold" ... only to discover the water temp is 85 degrees! Robert Louis Stevenson spent four months here and liked it so much he built a house here. Abemama was written up as one of the two friendly islands in "Searching for Paradise, A Grand tour of the World's Unspoiled Islands" by Thurston Clarke. He also wrote a book "Equator: A Journey" which describes life here in more detail. To date we have found Onotoa more unspoiled and friendly but we'll see..

There is an other interesting book called, "Sex lives of Cannibals". It is about a man (and his girlfriend) who move to Tarawa (from the states). It can be a bit negative, but mostly in a humorous way. It might be a fun read for those interested in some of the nuisances of the "out there" lifestyle of atoll/Kiribati life! The funny thing is the islands we've visited so far are even more remote.. no power, phones etc.
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